Meredith invented the definitive chocolate cake for our upcoming book, Everyday Raw Desserts.  She and her friend Simone prepared it this weekend for the birthday dinner of my partner, Dara Prentice, which was held on the patio of 105degrees.

Triple Layer Cacao Cake

Wet Ingredients

• 3 C Date Paste
• ½ C Almond Milk
• ½ C Maple Syrup or Agave
• 5 tbsp Vanilla
• ½ C Coconut Oil, melted

Dry Ingredients

• 4 C Almond flour
• 4 C Hazelnut flour
• 1 C Coconut Powder
• 1 C Cacao Powder
• 1 tsp Salt
• *¼ C Irish Moss Paste can be used with wet ingredients or ¼ C flax meal with the dry.
  This is optional and creates a fluffier mixture.

Wet Ingredients

In a vita mix thoroughly blend all the wet ingredients except for the coconut oil until smooth. Then add the coconut oil and continue to blend until well combined.

To Make Cake Batter

In a mixer or food processor mix the dry ingredients until thoroughly combined. Slowly add the wet ingredients. It is better to use a standing mixture as this will keep the mixture lighter and more fluffy, but if you do not have a standing mixer it can be done in the food processor if you lightly pulse the wet ingredients in. You do not want a dense heavily blended mixture.

Fudge Frosting

• 2 C soaked Cashews
• 2 C Almond Milk
• ½ Maple Syrup
• 4 tbsp Vanilla Extract
• 1 C Cacao Powder
• ¼ tsp Salt
• ¾ C Coconut Butter, melted
• Cacao Shell*

Frosting

In a vita mix thoroughly blend all the wet ingredients except for the coconut oil until smooth. Then add the coconut oil and continue to blend until well combined and creamy. Place in the refrigerator for 30 min to an hour until slightly firm, but still able to be easily spread.

Assembly
Divide cake batter into thirds. Press one layer of batter in a 9 inch spring form pan and alternate with frosting. Refrigerate just before serving and glaze with Cacao shell.

Makes one 9 inch cake

Related posts:

1. White Corn Tamale
2. Raw Mochi
3. Chocolate Chapter

A summer meal at Primo in Rockland, Maine highlighted everything about the growing Maine food scene that I love - a passion for sustainable, local ingredients, clean but imaginative cooking and talented operators who understand their market.  Honey from their own hives, Price’s excellent bread and pastries, and Melissa’s talent with some of the best products in the state – greens, herbs and flowers all grown on property add up to an incredible experience.  The most recent night I was there, capenters were building an outdoor chicken coop under spotlight for the 100 laying eggs that were due to arrive the next morning.  In the same way that many travel to the Costa Brava in Catalonia to experience the ethereal cuisine of Ferran Adria, others go out of their way to find Primo during their travels in the Northeast.

www.primorestaurant.com

Related posts:

1. Shang
2. O-Ya
3. Autumn Flavors

The Academy

Ladan Raissi, Academy Director

The Cafe

JD Arnold and Mackenzie Cobb, Cafe Managers

The Kitchen

Geoffrey van Glabbeek, Chef de Cuisine

Don Cashion, Sous Chef

Kelly Dennis, Pastry Chef

The Shop

Meredith Baird, product forager (and much more)

The Company

Dara Prentice, Founder

Related posts:

1. 105degrees
2. Live & Learn, 2009
3. Meet: Ariane Dutzi

There is no need for another full review of Born Round, the recently published memoir by Frank Bruni, who ended his tenure as the New York Times food critic a few weeks ago. The book has been widely publicized and critiqued, with mostly glowing reviews. Having read many food memoirs, including those of a previous critic, Ruth Reichl, I have become somewhat disillusioned with them, finding the content a bit syrupy and unrealistic as it relates to the subject of the enjoyment of food – typically, relatively unhealthy food.

Although I’ve grown to respect and enjoy Mr. Bruni’s writing, I couldn’t help but notice that a large volume of his early reviews were meat-centric, and that his taste in cuisine was far different than what I personally enjoy. Over time, I have mostly stopped reading food reviews in general.

When I heard that this book would be different, provocative and far more revealing than may have been expected, my interest piqued and I began watching out for the book’s arrival date.

Then, when the food bloggers began to receive advance copies, the surprises began. It turns out that Mr. Bruni spent a great deal of his writing on the subject of his personal struggles with weight loss, overeating and bulimia. I once again lost interest – not that I am insensitive to this subject, but I was disheartened that someone in such a position of power, someone who could and did reshape dining in America, was not fully enough in tune with food to appreciate it properly. With everything that is wrong with our food supply chain, and consumptive habits, I have a hard time not believing that further damage was done by the Times, in allowing a writer influenced by more than just good taste, to pen articles that influence the day to day food decisions of millions.

Just when I was prepared to write Born Round off entirely, I was forwarded an interview that a New York City blogger posted with Frank Bruni. One question/answer really caught my attention.

Frank, I was surprised to find out that your book was going to be about bulimia and this kind of thing. I expected something along the lines of Ruth Reichl.

A couple of weeks ago, I drafted an article about the connection, or lack thereof, which we have to our immediate environment. Its suggestion was for us to get more involved in the procurement of our food, grow a garden when we have the space, forage when we have the opportunity, and become more in sync, overall, with nature and the seasons. As I was about to edit it, I realized that the topic has already been fully covered in the past few months, especially given the new project of Michelle Obama, the organic garden at the White House. It seemed redundant to even bother. As is usually the case for me during exercise, another subject presented itself while I was on an afternoon run a few days ago.

With a few warm early Spring afternoons, the snow finally started melting away, especially on the edges of fields and roads. Unfortunately, the first of Spring in Maine is not always as attractive as one might imagine – it’s actually a bit dark and damp, but part of the seasonal transition, so it does have its own beauty. An unfortunate fact is the subject of what may be hiding under that beautiful snow when it does leave us and it is quite revealing in many ways. While I’ve always noticed a lot of litter, there seemed to be more than ever this year, and I decided to take a few images from a stretch of road less than 1/2 mile long. Perhaps not surprisingly, the debris comes from some of our (least) favorite sources. Let me offer a hint – I didn’t find any Kombucha bottles next to the highway. There seems to be a direct correlation to how we treat our bodies and how we treat our planet. This is unfortunate, as fast food continues to grow in some markets, and its negative impact, which begins at the production stage, has certainly secured its status by going full circle.

Growing up on Penobscot Bay, one of my first sights each morning would be Sears Island, floating motionless in the cold blue waters. As time passed and I moved away, I still maintained my attachment to that view. Although it took me many years to find the freedom to do so, I eventually found a summer cottage to rent along the bay, a few hundred yards from my childhood house. In an equally inspiring setting, it not only brought me home, but also refreshed my perspective on the natural beauty of the area. From its wooden porch, the island view is even more impressive – so much so, that it often feels as if it is my own front lawn.

Sears Island is a rare gem in a world increasingly reliant on development, often to the detriment of the environment.  It was formed 12,000 years ago when the last glacier retreated. In its early years, it was often occupied by the Penobscot Indians living in the region. The American Revolution would bring squatters to the Island – in one incident, an American Ship was sunk in the Island’s harbor.  In the late 1700s, several farming families were living on the Island.  It was purchased and given its current name in 1813 by David Sears, who built and lived on his summer estate there, until it was destroyed by fire in 1893.  During this time, a few families continued to farm and there are some who believe that the Island served as a base for alcohol smuggling during prohibition.   In 1905, the Island was purchased by the Bangor & Aroostook Railway, with the intent of it being a tourist destination.  However, the invention of the automobile caused that plan to fail.  In the 1930’s, the last farm abandoned the Island and it began to adjust back to its natural state.

It is currently the largest uninhabited body of land on the East Coast of the United States, but it has had to fend off numerous attempts at development to maintain that title. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, proposals were made to develop an oil refinery on the Island.  When that was rejected by the State, a Nuclear Power Plant was proposed by Central Maine power.  This was fought aggressively and when the project was abandoned, additional proposals were produced for a coal fired power plant and an aluminum smelter. All were met with passionate objection and debate, and ultimately, were also abandoned.

In 1982, things began to get even more interesting.  Plans were developed to build a deep water cargo and container port on the Island.  Initial studies seemed to indicate that it would move ahead.  A causeway was constructed to gain access to the Island (at the time, the only means of access was to wait for low tide and cross on the sand bar, or to arrive by paddle boat.)  Many recognized the destruction that would take place and appealed to the Sierra Club.  Numerous injunctions were filed, the project would be halted a number of times, and eventually it was stopped in 1996 amid a litany of allegations including a criminal investigation into one of the environmental study’s results, which indicated that the Island had no wetlands – a fact that was later proved to be an enormous distortion and the pivotal reason for the final rejection of the project.

Much had changed during the 25 years that Sears Island had been targeted for development.  Although still a low income area, Searsport and its surrounding towns had begun to have a small, but vocal, influx of new residents.  While those who lived there in the 70s and 80s were somewhat split on the benefits of development and preservation, many of the newer arrivals had come specifically for the natural character of the region and the quaint charm of its small bay.   Thus, in 2003, when a proposal by the State of Maine to build a liquid natural gas terminal was presented, the outcry was loud and clear.  Many had grown tired of being told what would happen to their waters, their land and the little town where they lived.  The small sailboats seen on any summer afternoon, and the early morning lobster fisherman were not going away quietly. This project quickly disappeared, and the developers retreated once again.

The most recent developments are perhaps the most significant, and the most specific, with respect to the future of Sears Island, both from a conservational, and from a developmental, standpoint.  In January, Maine Governor John Baldacci signed an Executive Order, directing a conservation easement between Maine and the Maine Coast Heritage Trust, for 601 acres of the Island, while retaining 300 acres for development and construction of a cargo and container port.

Needless to say, this plan is unfavorable to many, as well as potentially devastating to the Bay’s aquaculture and its surrounding environment.  Enter Ron Huber, an insightful and passionate environmental activist from Rockland, Maine.  I met with Mr. Huber to discuss the recent lawsuit he filed against the Maine Department of Transportation.  The basis of the suit charges violations of state law and the Maine constitution, among other others.  It is an interesting case to read.

The Department of Transportation, oddly, missed its filing date on all motions, leaving the current status up to the Judge’s opinion as to whether a default judgment is in order.  It will surely be interesting to observe.  I found Mr. Huber to be a very intelligent and driven man, committed to the environment and the state he loves.

For now, Sears Island sits in silence, although a week will not go by without some chatter and discussion about what may happen next. Given that the State is now consistently been pro-development, it may not lie idle forever. At least for the moment, it offers up its wild beauty to many locals and visitors.

As we become more focused on understanding health and weight related issues, the media’s role in providing information on these subjects has increased to a large degree. Nearly every health or fitness driven magazine and website publishes regular columns devoted to a variety of topics, ranging from diet, to medication, exercise and nutrition. The speed at which these vehicles produce information, along with a journalist’s commitment, or lack thereof, to fact finding, research and objectivity, often create situations where the truth is stretched or simply ignored entirely. A recent article on a widely read site, www.health.com, provided a striking example of just how loose the editorial standards can be. The article, written by Julie Upton, a registered dietitian and prolific health writer, was titled six diet trends you should never try. From my own experience with the often misleading information found on these sites, I rarely follow them. However, due to Ms. Upton’s inclusion of the raw food diet in the list of those to avoid, I felt compelled read her column. It was an interesting read, if only for a further education as to how far a journalist can manipulate or misstate facts for the purposes of completing an article and likely a deadline.

Ms. Upton’s resume is extensive and she certainly possesses the skills and resources to properly research her stories and to deliver a balanced, factual and objective viewpoint. It would be hard to question that alone but based on this particular article, the commitment to do so may be lacking, and editorial oversight certainly is. Interesting, the most notable quote on Ms. Upton’s website is as follows:

“My favorite part of being a writer is coming up with a story idea that no one else thought of or unearthing some lesser-known research that’s never been reported on. The challenge in nutrition writing is to take credible, scientific information that’s not new, but making it newsworthy.”

Being one who supports creativity in all its forms, I can hardly argue with that lofty goal however, when it results in manipulation of facts to support a story that is ill conceived to begin with, I have a hard time agreeing with that approach.

In all fairness, and in the spirit of “journalistic integrity”, I did attempt to contact both Ms. Upton and her publisher, in the hopes that one or both would respond to a few questions and offer rebuttals to my assessment of the article. Neither party responded, so I have let the facts of the article speak for itself.

Raw Food Diet

Eating raw is based on trying to get the majority of your calories from unprocessed and uncooked foods. Rawists believe that eating foods above 116° – 118° F will destroy enzymes that provide many health benefits. While most dietitians would agree that eating lots of minimally processed fruits, vegetables, and grains is best, we also understand that processing actually boosts the bioavailability of several key nutrients, primarily the phytonutrients, and inactivates some of the unhealthy compounds.

The raw food diet is rich in all plant-based foods including fruits and vegetables; nuts and seeds; and sprouted seeds, grains, and beans. Don’t get me wrong; these ingredients are great and you can make plenty of meals (here are five delicious ones) using these guidelines. But following this type of diet to a T requires a lot of complicated food preparation creating pine nut and yeast “cheese,” for example that makes it impractical for most working women.

I have had plenty of experience with raw foods because I live in Marin County, Calif., where Roxanne Klein, the coauthor of Raw, started Roxanne’s Fine Cuisine, a line of pricey prepared raw food creations available at our Whole Foods and other high-end supermarkets. I’ve tried several of the items but have found them to be extremely expensive and not very tasty certainly nothing I could follow for more than a day or two at most.

As a “flexitarian” and part-time vegan, I know that eating lower on the food chain can help promote weight loss, but I also know that caloric content is not related to the heated treatment of food. Skip the raw food diet, and eat more healthful whole foods cooked or raw to help whittle your waist, not your wallet.

The article prompted a rally from a number of raw food fans, including me. There is no question that most of her points could be valid under certain circumstances, but in general, they are far from factual.

Raw food, like any food, can be complicated to prepare. It can also be extraordinarily simple in fact, the easiest of any foods. Ms. Upton seems to confuse restaurant and cookbook quality, gourmet raw food, with what the general population would prepare at home on a daily basis. It was a point that was very poorly made the same could be said of any style of food, save packaged and processed foods, which, incidentally, she has also endorsed in various articles she has written in the past.

Most troubling, from a point of integrity, is what she has chosen to base as her “experience” with raw food. Said experience was based on the fact that she lives in an area where one brand of raw food is sold in its packaged form at high end supermarkets. If she was truly familiar, she would realize that packaged foods are the least prominent aspect of what makes raw food truly remarkable. In my letter, I pointed out that basing her opinion of raw food on a packaged product would be like judging a master chef based on a line of canned soups borrowing his or her name, and sold at a local deli. The statement is equal to suggesting that French Cuisine is not fresh, based on the purchase of a frozen meal.

Ms. Upton, a self described part-time vegan (whatever that may be), seems to have her priorities in line with her quoted mission whether those priorities are of benefit to her readers or not is another story.