It was near the end of a long week, near the end of a long month - the Friday before Christmas in New York, and I was eager to catch my late flight to Maine and be next to a warm fire. Instead, just on the cusp of the Winter solstice, the first major storm arrived early in the day.

After several hours moving about the city, I finished my work with wet feet, a permanent chill running through my body and a sense of resignation that I was not flying anywhere that evening. The airports were essentially closed. I'd normally embrace this scenario and take advantage of an unexpected night in the city, but this one was a bit oppressive. I had arrived from Mexico just a day earlier and still hadn't adjusted - by sunset, the precipitation had turned to cold rain and the snow was becoming slush. I could think of only two things: A quiet evening and a warm meal.

Shang is positioned on the second floor of the new Thompson LES, a sister offshoot of the boutique hotel, 60 Thompson, which opened in Soho several years ago. Thompson LES is a bit more low key. Shang's main entrance is on the quiet Orchard Street side of the building, and just on the outskirts of the now burgeoning Lower East Side. The room is modern and minimal, even by the standards of someone as minimal as me. Aside from two glowing mesh chandeliers, an updated and clever take on the Chinese lantern, the design is quite stark and even more so on a dark winter evening.

The chef is Susur Lee, who is well known for the unique cuisine he has produced at his Toronto restaurants, Susur and Lee, for many years. We first met at an event in Mexico City nearly 10 years ago, and I was impressed by his cuisine then. The interesting aspect of my experience with Shang is that I'd also dined there the night before. Although I found the concept of the menu brilliant, I was not thrilled with my first dinner. The sharp balance that I'd expected was not evident in a somewhat clunky Bejing Style Cucumber Salad with Avocado, Squash and Miso Barley with Lotus Root, or Steamed And Crusted Dim Sum Vegetable Potato Dumplings, Swatow chili and Soy juice. Both sounded like dream dishes for me and, after a week in Mexico, even more appealing. However, they fell a bit flat and I decided that I'd return in a month or two once the restaurant had time to adjust. What a difference a day makes - or for that matter, a menu choice.

Despite my experience the evening prior, I was drawn back, in part due to the excitement of knowing that this creative chef was one of very few in New York that evening actually manning his or her kitchen. I arrived late and ordered simply; a glass of Pinot Gris, Fresh ground coconut curry with cauliflower, lentils, potato, and stewed fruits and Whole Wheat Mantou Bread. Like a once in a lifetime experience, or viewing of great art, it would be hard to describe. This was simply one of the best vegetarian meals I've ever had, and certainly the best when timing is factored in. On this cold night, feeling tired and drained, the warmth of Susur's cuisine brought a slight the life back into my body and a sense of balance was restored. Dipping this amazing bread in the curry spiced with chili paste, alternating with sips of wine, I was perfectly happy. I have been thinking about this meal since and can only hope it snows on my next visit.

Shang
187 Orchard Street, New York, NY
www.shangrestaurant.com