Somewhat as I expect, the truck creaks into the lot at quarter past ten, and slowly backs up to the side of the steps while an employee from inside removes the crates.  I’m enjoying my coffee and the morning, but when the gate to the body opens up, my eyes widen, as they always do.  And even being so late in the season, there is still a wildly abundant amount of produce. Inside are wooden boxes filled with long purple eggplants – fat bunches of leafy greens wrapped in twine, bright cherry tomatoes that appear to have been dipped in champagne and honey, carefully placed inside brown paper flower pots, tin wash tubs with the most colorful mesclun mix in the world……the truck is overflowing, bursting actually, with these vibrant products, all artfully, but somehow naturally arranged in their perfectly matched country containers.

While the truck from The Chase Farm in Morrill, a few miles from here,  is being emptied, I take my coffee inside – Chase’s Daily is the Chase family’s foray into retail, a large open space in the center of town – with its 20 foot original tin ceilings, all in white, art covered walls and a blond hardwood floor, it bears little resemblance to the kitschy Grasshopper Shop that used to be in this space, the one where my pre-college girlfriends always seemed to work and where I would buy cassette tapes to listen to on hot summer evenings in the parent’s car.  It runs through from a rear parking lot to Main Street, which serves their operation well.  In the front, beyond enormous country style windows and facing the street is a café, with about 50 slatted wooden seats and booths, and square farmhouse tables adorned with reddish orange cloth towels, small wildflower arrangements and tiny bowls of fleur de sel.  Half of the center of the wide, but rectangular space is taken up by an open kitchen, which is framed by a retail counter and cash register. In an old fashioned deli case are about 20 artisanal cheeses, including  Maine chevre, a blond and creamy goat gouda and also my favorite standby, aged Manchego.  Small tins of Portuguese olive oil and jars of both black and green French olives sit above; each offered for sale as explained by the small cedar shingle beside, with a handwritten price on it.

Next to the register are a dozen or more hand painted country style plates with baked items – raspberry-buckwheat muffins or cheddar scones, pear almond muffins, a thick coconut cake – cherry tarts, various pastries and jars full of cookies, exposed just enough to give me serious temptation to the concept of enjoying one, although breakfast was a recent memory.  The beauty of the operation lies behind the cashier, and in front of the kitchen, on the two way shelves that separate the food preparation and the front of the house – backed by two tall cooling racks still full of bread, the shelves are filled with the warm loaves of semolina, potato-rosemary, hazelnut-white raisin and the ultimate ring shaped crown loaf, with its golden crust, warm pillow-like chewy center and the dusting of flour on its flat, crisp bottom.  The air by the register carries a sweet, yeasty, earthy aroma that can drive a hungry person mad.

Nearly everything in the entire space is grown, prepared and procured by, the family.  An antique red coffee grinder sits along a wall opposite the counter, next to hand bagged beans, and on the same table as the local Swann’s honey, both raw and heated.  Other than their own t-shirts, printed in my home town of Searsport, with the simple slogan “eat local”, there is no sign of commercialism, no web address, and no flyers.  The plain brown bags that food is taken away in are stamped with a Chase’s Ink Stain, which includes an image of a country table much like those in the café. The space does double as an art gallery, a hobby of one family member, and I have noticed that the local exhibits are becoming a little more edgy these days.  The ever friendly music, satisfied late breakfasters and eager shoppers awaiting their produce ensure that this remains as grounded as a store can be.  Somehow, the family manages to operate a farm and this multi use space – and although they do appear to have devoted their lives to sustaining the business, it is all handled with grace and perfectionism intact.

I have no idea what I’ll prepare – and therefore, no idea what I will buy. But keeping an open mind has helped me with some of my favorite dishes over the years.  I pick up one of the large wicker baskets and begin my shopping spree:  licorice scented young fennel, a handful of orange-green squash, a big bag of that famous mesclun, broccoli rabe, a couple bunches of marjoram and thyme that have been so meticulously wrapped in twine and a large bouquet of opal basil with an intoxicating perfume….the aluminum cone shaped buckets hold handfuls of wildflowers – I choose one that has the usual muted white and green that I favor and carry it to the cashier with my produce.  She removes the flowers and wraps them in yesterday’s newspaper, wets the bottom and packs everything – then adds my two steamy crown loaves, a jar of green olives, and good sized chunks of Seal Cove Chevre and a quarter pound of Manchego.  After tearing off a piece of that warm chewy bread, I head back to my home in Searsport, loaded up with the charged energy I get by shortening the distance between earth and plate…in this case, a little more than half a day.  Consider that purchasing produce even at an upscale venue in New York City – Whole Foods, for example – often means buying something that was harvested in another state, delivered in bulk and distributed to the store’s storage room.  It is checked in and stocked only when the current inventory is depleted – it could be up to a week before the product is actually sold and often a few more days before it is eaten.  The ingredients used in this meal will never meet a refrigerator and that excites me.

Once a week I’ll have a meal in the café, which is always prepared with the same straightforward seasonal approach.  Although Chase’s Daily serves lunch Tuesday through Sunday, dinner is once a week, on Fridays.  I tend to go late, as they have gotten very popular the past few years and it tends to be a little hectic at times.  The menu is small, a bit quirky and intoxicatingly attractive.  The menu still has hints of summer, yet provides a clear indication that the season is passing.

The wine list is small, but carries several European varietals that are light enough to marry well with this cuisine.  Marinated olives, crusty warm bread and olive oil are on the table within minutes, assuring every dinner that they have very good judgment.

Starters tend to be very fresh and highlight the garden.  A crunchy salad of raw vegetables; fennel, baby carrots, radishes and herbs, with a lemony vinaigrette and a few tiny squares of a fresh mozzarella is sparkling and vibrant.  Roasted Beet and Parmigiano bruschetta is rich, innovate and well balanced with a rustic, herbal chickpea bruschetta on the same crunchy olive oil drenched bread.  My brother always orders the sautéed greens with garlic, olive oil and lemon – they must be flash cooked in hot olive oil in a wok, as they are crispy and actually sweet, salty and sour.

Main Courses (which the menu calls “Dinners”) tend to be more substantial – so perhaps their title is more appropriate.  My favorite dish is always the steaming hot and coarse polenta with a spicy roasted tomato pesto, a sautéed dark green (tonight it is broccoli rabe) and grilled smoky portobellos.  A new dish on the menu is the Fresh, handmade fettucini with basil pesto, new potatoes, green beans and parmesan – this version of the classic Genovese style pasta al pesto is riveting . I usually tend to stick with rustic Italian preparations at Chases, but recently I enjoyed the soba noodles with peanut sauce, tofu, happy rich, sugar snaps, asian greens and Thai basil.  It is seductively rich and spicy.

Desserts are large, homey, sweet and indulgent – we shared the peach upside down cake with whipped cream, which is every bit as rich and buttery as you might imagine.

Chase's is a true reflection of the seasons and the beauty of nature.

CHASE'S DAILY

96 MAINE STREET
BELFAST, MAINE 04915
207.338.0555

AMBIANCE: Sailboat Casual, LL Bean, Khaki Friendly, Comfortable

TARIFF: Small plates $6-10, Large plates $17-20.  *Produce is remarkably reasonable. Cool Tshirts, $17

SERVICE: Smiling and Professional

RATING: Inspired, Vibrant, Comfortable, Gratifying, Healing