Although I travel frequently, I'm still not much of a tourist. When I arrive at my destination, I am more interested in learning about how people live, their artistic and food culture, and understanding the day to day rhythm of a new place. After a summer in Maine, where life is mostly outdoors, mornings begin at sunrise and sleep is just a few hours after dark, Madrid was a sharp contrast. This was my second extended visit this year, but I'm still far from accustomed to the schedule there, and I'm only a little closer to understanding the lifestyle than I was before I first visited.

Everyone appears to be very social, streets are packed with pedestrians, Vespas, motorcycles and cars. Cafes, bars and shops seem to be bustling during the afternoons and later evenings. There is a sense of casual openness wherever I went and yet, the city still exudes a great deal of mystery to me. Much of it lies in the elaborate architecture, the narrow labyrinth of the cobblestone paved streets and the almost silent early mornings. At first glance, one sees mostly a jovial, almost party like atmosphere, but I've come away from both visits with the same contrasting feelings about the city.

Like other older and beautiful cities that I have learned to enjoy, such as Marrakesh and Istanbul, Madrid takes some time to know. I do at least start off on the right foot - although my flight usually arrives early in the morning and I haven't slept more than a couple of hours, I usually head to a café for a cortado, the short dark coffee that is immensely popular and very easy to drink. And before taking a long nap, I always pick up some fresh manchego, crusty bread and a bottle of Albarino, my favorite white wine. After a rest, I'll head to the restaurant I'm working with, La Mucca, and spend a few hours in the kitchen - they are a great team, very efficient and upbeat, with a few amateur singers among them. The atmosphere is a warm and inviting one.

After a couple of very productive weeks, I'm ready to leave and the city still eludes me. I'm unable to fully grasp what it is about Madrid that creates this feeling, but it is partially summed up by doors. They entrances to residences, shops and cafes are varied, colorful, exotic, flamboyant and stately. More than anything, they reflect the various impressions the city makes on me, as well as shed a little light on what I am not seeing, what likely appears only to those who live there for some time. Here are a few of those ‘doors' that spoke one message or another to me.